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Author Topic: What backup equipment do you carry? (split from: Equipment malfunction (!) - wheels clunking)  (Read 10488 times)

Offline Bishop

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Amazon has 16-packs for $28 with free shipping. :D

Thanks for the tip.  I'm considering the 20 pack so I'll have a few spares.  Looks like they want to sell me a Bones Skate Bearings Cleaning Unit and some Bones Speed Cream Skate Bearing Lubricant.  Do you recommend either of those or something like them?
Recommended Resources:WFTDA Rules Central, WFTDA officiating & Successful Sports Officiating
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Offline DayGlo Divine

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Amazon has 16-packs for $28 with free shipping. :D

Thanks for the tip.  I'm considering the 20 pack so I'll have a few spares.  Looks like they want to sell me a Bones Skate Bearings Cleaning Unit and some Bones Speed Cream Skate Bearing Lubricant.  Do you recommend either of those or something like them?

Can't hurt. Also get some cleaning solution while you're at it.
WFTDA Certified Referee (Level 2)
Charm City Roller Girls
Opinions expressed here are mine. Not WFTDA's, not Charm City's, and not those of Zebra Huddle as a whole.

Offline lets get it Shawn

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The link I posted earlier has all that stuff under the accessories just so you have a price comparison
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Offline Stegoscorus

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On top of stuff other people have mentioned, I like to have these things with me:

chap stick (bout day is windy and makes me dry!)

Tums (I usually just use these at tournaments and events, where I inevitably have to ingest Sports Food of some kind)

scissors (I brought them once for something, and have found ever since that there is always someone running around going "Oh god, does anyone have SCISSORS?!" for one thing or another)

lint roller (to stay classy-looking despite living with three cats)
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Offline Darkjester

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I took a used pickle jar, a drill, 4 5 inch 1/4 size , bolts, 4 lock nut washers, 12 tube spacers, and 8 nuts,and a small tube of silicone, and made my own 'bearing cleaner' that I can use to clean both sets of skate bearings, in approximately 10 minutes.

Punch 4 holes in the lid of the jar with the drill, put your four bolts through, add a washer, squit a bit of silicone gasket , and tighten down with a nut.  Let sit and dry.

Then all you have to do is pull your bearings from the skates, remove 1 side of your bearing cover, load  Bearing(spacer) Bearing (Spacer) Bearing(spacer) bearing (Nut).  On each of the four bolts..  Fill your pickle jar 1/2 full with warm water and Mineral Spirits..   Shake like heck for 5 minutes.

Pour out the mineral spirits& water, use a sprits of canned air to blow out any remaining cleaner from your bearings..  Add 2 drops of speed cream, or any other oil you prefer instead.

Voila..

16 clean bearings in 10 minutes time, twice the amount of bearings than the bones bearing cleaner at 1/4th the cost.

Madness Tolls
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Offline angri-la

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I think new skates are generally all 8mm and older skates are 7mm - no idea why.

Not necessarily.

All Roll-Line, Snyder, and Laser plates are 7 mm. So are Sure-Grip PowerTracs and Labeda Prolines (which some veteran speed skater types have), as well as Atlases and a few other artistic plates that are rarely if ever used by derby skaters. Except for the Prolines, all these plates are still in production.

All PowerDyne plates (DynaPro, Reactor, and the stock nylon plates that come on Riedell's less expensive skates) are 8 mm. So if you have R3s, Wickeds, Vandals, Minxes, etc., that's what you have.

Most new Sure-Grip plates are 8 mm. Most older ones are 7 mm. The good thing about Sure-Grip plates is that they generally have standard parts between models, so if you have a set of the old 7 mm trucks, you can easily and cheaply replace them with 8 mm ones. I've got a stockpile of 'em myself.

</gear geek>

That makes sense that it depends on the plate I think most of our girls have PowerDyne or SureGrip. My skates both have old SureGrip plates - XK-4s and Invaders.
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Offline howie~swerve

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- some pliers
- a set of 30-weight ball bearings

</Fletch>

i'd second, third and fourth the shoelaces -- in my old sure-grips, with no lace protection, I'd break them every tenth rock-star fall.  I'd test my laces for weak spots before every bout, and replace them if there was any chance of their breaking.  How embarrassing would it be for a OTO to be called for the jamref to replace his shoelace?  I don't want to find out.

I just moved to Reactors on my new skates, from old nylons.  I would agree with DayGlo -- the numbers on the nuts are very "this one goes to 11".  you'll tune them through feeling, not number.  But in general the transition to metal has been shocking -- if you're moving from a nylon plate, get ready for a *lot* more control and agility, but also to relearn technique.  your nylon plate was doing a lot of the flexing and bending that now your body is going to have to do, so you may feel that you have less flexibility.  you'll be tempted to loosen your trucks -- not necessarily the answer.




« Last Edit: May 27, 2009, 08:36:06 pm by howie~swerve »
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Offline DayGlo Divine

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While we're talking backup equipment, and in the safety-first vein of the "ref down" thread...

One of our rookies lost a truck in the middle of a jam tonight. She upgraded her 265s from those godawful nylon plates to Reactors last fall. The kingpins are not installed on the plates when they ship separately from the boots, and whoever put them on either didn't tighten them enough or didn't use thread locker. She didn't check them regularly, so the kingpin hanger got stripped to the point where her $300 plates are completely hosed. I hope Riedell replaces it instead of charging her for a new plate, but there's no guarantee. Either way, she will be borrowing skates from me or someone else for at least a few weeks. So...

CHECK YOUR TRUCKS AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK, and make sure you have whatever tools you need for them with you at all times. 

If you have nylon plates or DynaPros, make sure the lock nuts underneath the trucks are firmly in place; like axle nuts, they tend to wear out over time.

If you have older Sure-Grip plates or Lasers, make sure the nut above your trucks is tight; if it's not, the thread holding the kingpin (and truck) in place will eventually get stripped.

If you have fancypants plates like Reactors or Roll Lines, check the nut above your trucks (which is built into the kingpin) and make sure the little Allen screw that goes into the bottom nut is still there and tight.

If this all sounds like gibberish to you, this diagram should at least familiarize you with the terms, even if your skates aren't configured the same.

Also, if you're rocking Carreras, Boxers, or some old skates you got off eBay, your plates are held on by rivets, and they can wear out. Check to make sure those aren't loose as well, and if they are, have someone who's handy replace them with mounting bolts. I've now seen three skaters lose a plate during practices/bouts. It ain't pretty.

</gear dork>
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Charm City Roller Girls
Opinions expressed here are mine. Not WFTDA's, not Charm City's, and not those of Zebra Huddle as a whole.

Offline Bishop

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Thanks for the tip.  I'm considering the 20 pack so I'll have a few spares.  

So, I bought the 20 pack for $35 from Amazon and elected for Super Saver (free) shipping which took about 10 days. 

I'd like to buy some hard wheels - like 98.5s or something.  Has anyone used 38mm wide wheels vs the 44mm wide wheels?  Is there anything special I need to consider when buying 38mm wide wheels?   ???

Also, are expensive outdoor wheels worth conisdering?  I'd like to have something extra grippy.  Or, what's the best option for polished concrete floors?
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Offline Brad Religion

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Well, gosh Bishop... No one ever answered your question about wheels. For what it's worth, the only wheels I've used in the short time I was actually on skates are Radar Flat Outs. We practice on polished cement, and I've not had much trouble slipping out. Also, lots of the ladies on our squad love the Atom Omegas, which are more narrow. No real difference in feel, according to them, but they notice that they bump wheels far less often with other pack skaters.

On the other hand, here's what Ivanna at Sin City suggests for that surface...

Sure Grip Fugitives - Blue or Black (My wife swears by these, but she likes the red ones)
Atom G-Rods
Radar Tuners - black blue or red
Atom Omegas if you like narrow wheels
Bleeding Heartland Roller Girls
Bloomington, IN

Offline Jessticular Fortitude

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My Sure Grip Sugars have been great on lots of surfaces- from polished concrete to coated skating rinks to smooth concrete to bumpy asphalt to smoother asphalt. They're grippy everywhere; I've not skidded or slipped once in them, and they bounce over gravel like it's nothing. I skated outside in the Fairgrounds parking lot for a good hour and then came back in to skate on our slippery as hell polished concrete floor, and I kid you not I think they felt even better on that floor. Only $60 for a set at sincity. http://sincityskates.com/2nd/wheels/sg-sugar.html I have the orange ones, don't know what the difference is with the blue ones since those weren't available when I bought mine.
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Offline Duncan Disorderly

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One of the wooden floors we skate on is like an ice rink, and our girls swear by the Sugars on that floor. Personally I tend to stick to all Radar Flat Outs as they seem to do pretty well on most surfaces (although I struggle on the aforementioned ultra-slippy floor), although I'll swap in some D-Rods if I'm skating on a very grippy floor, to avoid cramp and make ploughing (sorry: plowing),  hockey stops etc a bit easier.
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Offline Bishop

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Well, gosh Bishop... No one ever answered your question about wheels. For what it's worth, the only wheels I've used in the short time I was actually on skates are Radar Flat Outs. We practice on polished cement, and I've not had much trouble slipping out. Also, lots of the ladies on our squad love the Atom Omegas, which are more narrow. No real difference in feel, according to them, but they notice that they bump wheels far less often with other pack skaters.

On the other hand, here's what Ivanna at Sin City suggests for that surface...

Sure Grip Fugitives - Blue or Black (My wife swears by these, but she likes the red ones)
Atom G-Rods
Radar Tuners - black blue or red
Atom Omegas if you like narrow wheels

Thank you for responding.  I bought Atom Stoker Slims at ECE over the weekend for those extra grippy surfaces.

For polished concrete, I think I may try the Atom Omegas - mainly because Atom seems to make high quality wheels.  Oh, and because Atom is a major WFTDA sponsor. (Atom marketing reps - see how that works?  ;))
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Offline Brad Religion

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The ladies in our league that skate on the Omegas seem to really love them. I'm not about to drop $70 on a set unless I actually start working with MMRD or something, personally.

On the other hand, one of our skaters is getting flowed some wheels by Atom, and despite its name I am thinking about a set of their Queen B's when I get back in skates. She really likes those for our slightly crappy floor.
Bleeding Heartland Roller Girls
Bloomington, IN

Offline Bishop

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LOVE my Atom Stroker Slims!!!  They're fast (oh, so fast!) and grippy too.  I have a blood blister the size of a half dollar on my foot as testiment to the gripping power of these wheels.  I tried to get them to break loose on our rink floor.  I could get them to slide but I really had to cut hard at fast speeds to do so.  Also, something about them makes them more predictable as to when they'll break loose which is a HUGE help - I know just how much I can stress them.  The narrow profile makes them very manuverable too.  With these wheels I am reminded of my days in college spend Rollerblading and also days in my youth spent ice skating because of how sharply I can cut with them.  Way fun and worth the $90 (I bought them at ECDX when a vendor was trying to reduce their inventory prior to leaving.)  :)

FYI -  I *think* that the reason they are grippy even though they are hard (98.5 A) and narrow (38mm) has to do with the material they are made out of. 

Recommended Resources:WFTDA Rules Central, WFTDA officiating & Successful Sports Officiating
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